Grenoble and the Mountains
France
JUL 31, 2024
Grenoble
Col de Porte, Chamchaude
Col de Porte is only a 9.6 mile hike and in terms of difficulty, it’s relatively easy compared to other hikes over the past year. Yet this was one of the most challenging hikes I’ve ever done and the only hike where I cried from sheer frustration.
In my escape to France post-diagnosis, I knew I wanted to be out in the open and up in the mountains; the mountains are where I feel the most at peace and the most at ease - this is where I feel the most alive. Hiking has historically been a source of stress-relief and a chance to puzzle out the thoughts racing in my brain, but this time I knew that it was something I needed to do for myself mentally and prove that this diagnosis wouldn’t incapacitate me. However, with my diagnosis came restrictions: limit your exercise, maintain your heart rate under 100bpm, and keep an eye out for any symptoms, such as palpitations.
The hike started off on an incline, and first several steps were excruciating. My watch kept on vibrating, alerting me that I was over 100bpm, even though I was walking so much slower than my normal pace. I dragged my feet along, moving in slo-mo, trying to reduce my heart rate, but to no avail. If I went any slower I’d be stopped.
People kept on passing me, young hikers my age, experienced hikers with trail running gear, older hikers with gray hair, hikers of all shapes, body sizes, and ages, until I was left behind on my own. Resentment and frustration and fear crawled up through my throat, threatening to overtake me. Beep, beep. You’re still over 100bpm. Your life as you know it is still over.
Lacs Robert & Lac Achard, Chamrousse
Chamrousse is a ski park that turns into a hiking wonderland in the summer. The hike to Lacs Robert and Lac Achard (“lac” is French for “lake”) were my second attempt at hiking. The first round was about facing the reality of the exercise restrictions - a shock to the system. This second round would be about better managing my emotions and expectations.
Despite my feelings of discouragement and resentment around maintaining a heart rate below 100bpm (frankly impossible while walking a steep uphill), it all seemed worth it once I reached the gorgeous view of Lac Achard (below). There’s something so empowering and awe-inspiring about nature that centers you to the earth and brings you to the present, allowing you to cast aside your worries, frustrations, and fears for a brief moment.
The scenery at Chamrousse and Chamchaude reminds me of the topography of the Tian Shan mountains (Kazakhstan) and Ala-kol Lake (Kyrgyzstan). Coniferous trees pepper the landscape and look tiny against the mountains that lay in the distance. Clear lakes and blue skies provide a welcome contrast against the greenery of trees and grass. Alpine meadows are dotted with colorful wildflowers that somehow, against all odds, still stand strong despite their tiny size. It’d be a fun game to share photos from these places and have friends guess where they were taken - France, Kazakhstan, or Kyrgyzstan? It’s also a reminder of how epic my life has been: I’ve had the opportunity, and the determination, to explore the world with a sense of curiosity, leading me to venture into relatively undiscovered parts of the world.