Kutaisi, Georgia
POSTCARDS | AUG 22Alaska and I visited Kutaisi on our way back from a four-day hike in the Svaneti region. Neither of us was expecting the drive to take eight hours (it made for a tough drive there which was expertly handled by Alaska!) so on the way back we stopped in Kutaisi for two days.
Kutaisi is the third largest city in Georgia (Batumi on the west coast took over as Georgia’s second largest city in 2017), and is the cultural center and economic capital of Georgia. It’s the capital of the Imereti region, and in case you were wondering, the Imeretian version of khachapuri is a round bread stuffed with cheese.
Kutaisi has its place in legend and Greek mythology - it was the capital of Colchis, where Jason and the Argonauts arrived in search of the Golden Fleece. But shifting a bit to reality - during the Soviet occupation, Kutaisi was the manufacturing hub for the Soviet Union. When the Soviet Union collapsed, many people lost their jobs overnight. Kutaisi was also popular with the Georgian mafia, who had a hub in this city and maintained their own justice system.
Kutaisi was much more reminiscent of the Soviet Era with older, slightly dilapidated buildings and its own grungy hipster charm.
Sunset over Kutaisi, from our hotel rooftop
Enjoying a glass of homemade wine gifted to us by our host at Hotel Balachine (did not know that this famous ballet choreographer was Georgian!)
Sunset over the Rioni River, which runs through Kutaisi
Graffiti art is popular around Georgia, and I thought this piece nicely captured the heart of Georgian culture
Couldn't pass up the opportunity for a croissant. 2/5.
Gelati Monastery, which is on the outskirts of Kutaisi. It's a UNESCO heritage site and dates back to 1106 but I personally was unimpressed. I think it's because churches just don't do it for me anymore!
The inside of Gelati Monastery where King David IV, also known as David the Builder, is buried
Soviet Era architecture that gently mocks some of the values imposed by the USSR on Georgians
A description of our dinner, the Imeretian Board, at Sisters Restaurant
There is a strong anti-Russia sentiment in Georgia, as you can see from the list of cocktails - check out the White Occupant
Colchis Fountain - a tribute to Kutaisi's history and legend around gold and the Golden Fleece
A rest stop by the highway. I thought the brutalist architecture was cool! The rest stops are quite modern and the one we stopped at had a Dunkin' Donuts, small grocery store, and clean bathrooms